Recipes

October 25, 2014  |  By  | 


JUNE2014 •elitemagazine |33 C RETRO RECIPE REVIVAL STORYBY REBECCALOGAN PHOTOSBY RAULR.RUBIERA Ourcomplimentstothefour modernmilitarywiveswho agreedtoshowoffsome vintagecookbooks.The fashionstheyareflaunting areverymuchofthe moment,freshfromtheracks offourFayettevillestores. Butwithadashofmakeup andapinch(ormore)ofhair spray,theseladies—whose husbandsareallstationedat FortBragg—managedto channeltheirpredecessors andtransportedusrightback intime. ookbooksareliketime capsules. Toglimpsetheattitudesand valuesofaparticulareraor group,justcrackopena communitycollectionofrecipes, saysAndrewSmith,authorof severalfoodhistorybooksand professoroffoodstudiesatthe NewSchoolinNewYork. Smithhasdonejustthat, pagingthroughcountless cookbooksassembledby churches,clubsandthelike.He saidhewouldlovetodigestone puttogetherbymilitaryspouses. PlentyofthoseexistoneBay andofferawindowintomilitary familykitchensthroughthe decades.Take,forexample, “RecipesonParadeParty Cookbook:FavoriteRecipesof MilitaryOfficers’Wives”circa 1973.Itpulledselectionsfrom severalpostsincludingFortPolk, Louisiana,whereCarolyn“Petey” Gazlaywasatthetimepresident oftheOfficersWives’Club.She pitchedinarecipeforPercolator Punch. Gazlay,whonowlivesin California,vaguelyremembersthe beverage.Shevividlyremembers theenvironment. “Backthen,entertainingwas partofgettingourhusbands promoted,”Gazlaysaid.“Thatwas thebottomline.” Shesawthatsentimentreflected inthespousecookbooksthatshe startedcollectingwhenshebecame anArmywifeinthe1950sand whichstackedupastheGazlays movedfromposttopostwitha coupleofstopsatFortBragg.She saidthebooksalsoreflecta culinarydiversitythatshecameto enjoybutwhicheludedotherswho largelystayedput—includingher sisterinWestVirginia. “I’venoticedtherecipesshe’s cookingarestilltheonesmy mothercooked,”Gazlaysaid.“With themilitary,youmove.Youexpand yourpalate.Youtrynewthings.” Manycookbooksassembled aroundthearmedforcesoverthe yearswerejustaslikelyto includerecipesforOsumashior Zwibelkuchenastheyareapple pie. That’snottosaythatmilitary spouseshaven’tbeensweptupin somemoremainstreamtrends embracedbytheircivilian counterparts. Credits SpecialthankstoAndersonCreek Club,agatedcommunityinHarnett County,forlendingusakitchenfor theday.HairbyBrittanyWalkerand SaraAustinofJoelyindowntown Fayetteville.MakeupbyLaVida Frieson,lavidamakeupartist.com. ThanksaswelltoLodestoneArt& AntiquesandCottonExchangeforan assistontheprops. Clothescamefromthefollowing locations. ’50s: TalbotsinWestwood ShoppingCenter.Mirrored-floral dress,$189;shoes$139;Pave stretchbracelet$49.50;necklace $69.50;earrings$29.50. ’60s: Esleyfloraldress,$70atDash ofChicBoutique,whichopenedin Marchat4411RamseySt. ’70s: Top andaccessoriesfromFabulousFinds Boutique,1212FortBraggRoad. Juliettunic,$75;necklace,$30; bracelet,$26;headband,$15. ’80s: EnsemblefromClothes Mentor,awomen’sresalestore thatopenedthisyearin WestwoodShoppingCenter. Expressblouse$14;AnnTaylor skirt,$16;AnnTaylorLoftbelt, $10;necklace,$5;pinkbracelet, $4;orangebracelet,$3.

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